By: Sahra Mohamed
Fashion constantly evolves, but the rapid leadership changes at major luxury houses have made it harder to keep up. For consumers, understanding the shifts behind the brands they support is more important than ever. In a major shake-up, Demna Gvasalia is set to leave Balenciaga and take over as Gucci’s creative director. His move follows the short-lived tenure of Sabato De Sarno, who was appointed in 2023 but struggled to connect with consumers. Under his leadership, Gucci faced challenges that led to his departure in early 2025, leaving the brand in search of a new creative direction. According to Vogue, Gucci experienced a significant decline in sales during this time, with revenues falling by 25% to €1.64 billion in the third quarter of 2024. This decline followed previous drops of 19% in the second quarter and 18% in the first quarter of the same year. Demna is expected to align with Gucci’s goals, as the brand seeks to reestablish its creative identity. The question remains: will consumers embrace Gucci under Demna’s leadership?
During Demna’s time at Balenciaga, the brand faced multiple controversies over the years. In 2022, a disturbing holiday ad campaign featuring children led to intense backlash, with the full story covered by The New York Times. Despite issuing an apology, the controversy left a lasting stain on the brand’s reputation. Another key factor is Balenciaga’s heavy reliance on celebrity endorsements. The brand has worked with high-profile figures like Kim Kardashian, whose visibly uncomfortable appearance at its 2022 couture show drew widespread attention. As Balenciaga continues to leverage star power, some industry experts question its creative direction and long-term sustainability in the luxury market.
In more news, Jonathan Anderson is stepping down as creative director of Loewe after 11 years. He brought fresh designs that helped Loewe grow internationally. His work, including the launch of the iconic Puzzle bag, played a key role in Loewe’s success. In 2023, the brand reported a 62.5% increase in profits, as reported in Fashion Network. While Anderson’s next move is unclear, there’s speculation he might join Dior. His departure marks the end of a significant era for the brand.
Meanwhile, another luxury house is thriving: Miu Miu had an impressive start to 2024, with retail sales surging 89% compared to the previous year and earning the title of the hottest fashion brand according to Fashion Dive. However, whether Gargiulo can achieve similar success at Versace, a brand with a distinctively different aesthetic remains to be seen. Donatella Versace has been the creative force behind the brand for over two decades, taking over after the tragic death of her brother, Gianni Versace, in 1997. Under her leadership, Versace remains known for its bold style, vibrant prints, and luxurious designs. Donatella’s ability to fuse modern trends with the house’s signature aesthetics has allowed the brand to continue to dominate the fashion industry. During her time at Versace, Donatella created some of fashion’s most iconic moments, like Jennifer Lopez’s green jungle-print dress at the 2000 Grammys, which inspired Google Images. It’s now up to new creative director Gargiulo, to navigate the transition. His appointment marks a new chapter for Versace, one that could either refresh its legacy or redefine its identity.
Louis Vuitton is also undergoing major changes. CEO Damien Bertrand is now Deputy CEO, while former Fendi CEO Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou is joining Dior in the same role. At just 29, Angeloglou’s appointment raises questions about his experience in the luxury market. Another big move is legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath becoming the first-ever Creative Director for Louis Vuitton Beauty. The brand is expanding into cosmetics with its first collection, set to debut in autumn 2025. Louis Vuitton is launching ‘La Beauté Louis Vuitton,’ which will include products like lipsticks, lip balms, eyeshadow palettes, and leather goods such as lipstick cases and miniature trunks. McGrath, who has worked with brands like Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana will lead the collection. This marks the brand’s official entry into the beauty market.
Louis Vuitton has also made history by partnering with Rihanna, who launched the Fenty fashion house with LVMH in 2019, becoming the first Black woman to lead a luxury brand under the group. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty line achieved remarkable success upon its launch in 2017, generating $70 million in sales within its first month, as reported in Forbes.
Pharrell Williams’ time as Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Creative Director has been notable as well. His first collection was praised for mixing streetwear with high fashion, making Louis Vuitton appealing to both luxury buyers and younger audiences. In his Resort 2025 Menswear collection, Williams worked with Japanese designer Nigo, featuring cherry blossom designs. The standout accessories, like the Sakura-pink Speedy bags, showcase his unique blend of cultures.
Another creative director making an impact is James M. Jeter, a Morehouse College graduate, who was promoted to Creative Director for Men’s Polo at Ralph Lauren in August 2024, making him the first Black creative director in the brand’s 57-year history. Jeter previously co-designed the Morehouse and Spelman Collection, which celebrated HBCU culture and redefined Ralph Lauren’s approach to diversity. This campaign was the brand’s first to feature an all-Black creative team.
Leave a Reply